OaxacaExpeditions

Suggested Itinerary for Oaxaca expeditions.

We will spend seven nights in Oaxaca, a colonial city that many observers consider "the culinary heart of Mexico." In addition to seven varieties of "salsa mole" --- red, green, yellow and black --- try "chapulines" (chile-fried grasshoppers), a spritely dish that many enjoy despite "their better judgement." Mariscos Los Jorges, and the exquisitas comidas tipicas at El Asador Vasco persuade many travelers to settle in Oaxaca, a fate that has already befallen several of my students. Delight in late-night snacks at Antojitos Regionales Los Olmos. Or, check out the immense tlayudas oaxaquenas at Marta Sanchez's roadside stand open from 9:00 P.M. til dawn. Whatever you eat, wash it down with a swig of mezcal - a distilled cactus alternative to tequila - made only in Oaxaca valley. If you don't drink alcoholic beverages, have a cup of freshly-ground chocolate at Mayordomo on Mina near La Central de Abastos. In 1555, Oaxacan nuns added sugar to chocolate for the very first time. Indigenous peoples always drank chocolate in its unadorned, bitter form. In fact, the word "chocolate" derives from the Nahua "xoco atl" meaning "bitter water." Home-grown cacao beans are transformed into "goodies"at a number of shops located at the corner of Mina and 20 de Noviembre. (Tejate and atole are other Oaxacan beverages that appeal to the venturesome palate.)

Oaxaca was founded by conquistador Hernan Cortes, and remains one of the most intact colonial environments in the world. Oaxaca is blessed with an amiable citizenry, pervasive tranquilidad, abundant open-air music and dance and a temperate climate to ease the exertion of travel.

For eight or more travellors, seven-day programs cost $850.00, plus airfare. ALL ground costs are included: lodging, surface transportation, entrance fees and three wonderful meals per day. Throughout your journey, you will receive as much Spanish language instruction as you wish. (Extended ten-day Oaxaca expeditions are available for $1000.00. During extended stays, participants will spend several nights lodging in modest "Yu'us," Zapotec for "house." A small number of Yu'u guest homes are scattered among Oaxaca's outlying towns. While lodging at Yu'us, indigenous caretakers reveal community life "from the inside out."

(A 20% surcharge applies to expeditions that coincide with Semana Santa (Holy Week) and Oaxaca's unparalleled celebration of the "Día de los Muertos" ("Day of the Dead"). During these celebrations, Oaxacan hotel prices surge.)

Currently, round-trip flights from the eastern seaboard cost $535.00 - $650.00. Spanish Pronto will gladly make reservations on your behalf.

See: www.exitotravel.com www.flycheapOL.com www.orbitz.com

Although each Oaxaca expedition may begin on a different day of the week, the following weekdays will likely be spent at the following locations.

(PLEASE NOTE: Depending on which day of the week a particular tour begins, one of the following weekday itineraries will NOT be part of the tour. Instead, "the seventh day" -- or "tenth day" -- will begin your homeward journey.)

Saturday. Oaxaca's Saturday market is sprawling, exceptionally diverse marketplace.

Sunday morning: Visit Monte Alban, the most impressive Zaptotec ruin in Oaxaca state. In his memoir of Monte Alban, Aldous Huxley encourages us to "imagine a great isolated hill at the junction of three broad valleys; an island rising nearly a thousand feet from the green sea of fertility beneath it. An astonishing situation. But the Zaptotecs were not embarrassed bythe artisitic reponsibilities it imposed on them. They levelled the hill-top; laid out two huge rectangular courts; raised pyramidal altars or shrines at the center, with other, much larger, pyramids at either end. Even today, this high place of the Zapotecs remains extraordinarily impressive. Monte Alban is the work of men who knew their architectural business consummately well."

Sunday afternoon: Travelers will have opportunity to observe (or participate in) mass at La Iglesia de Santo Domingo, described by Aldous Huxley as "one of the most extravagantly gorgeous churches in the world." Visit the Museo Regional de Oaxaca occupying the old Dominican monastery behind Santo Domingo church. This fine museum houses "The Mixtec Jewelry Collection" comprising a substantial proportion of all extant pre-Columbian gold-work. (Most indigenously-wrought gold was melted into ingots for exportation to Spain.) The
Mixtecs, who superceded Zapotec rule when Monte Alban mysteriously collapsed in 800 A.D., are widely regarded as Mexico's best pre-Columbian artesans. By the 15th century, the Aztecs - who dominated central Mexico - valued Mixtec art and craft above all others.

Monday. Santa María de Tule where you'll see the world's largest-circumference tree. Five miles farther on, a side road leads to two tiny Zapotec villages, Abasolo and Papalutla. Few tourists come to these easy-going backwaters with few affectations of modernity. In Papalutla, we will watch Don Adrián weaving baskets. A local woman will cook for us, and, if time permits, we may rent mules to explore the hinterland.

Tuesday is market day in Santa Ana del Valle, a rug-weaving center. Visitors can observe master rug-maker,
Lucio Aquino Cruz, plying his trade. Marciano, the local baker, makes excellent bread.

Wednesday. Rest and recreation in Oaxaca. Visit the museums, cultural centers and stores along the cobblestone andador heading north from Oaxaca's Cathedral. Visit the Basílica de Nuestra Señora de la Soledad, where the
Virgen Maria is reported to have appeared in 1620. Examine the fascinating collection of artefacts sent from around the world as gifts to the Virgen. The best ice cream in Mexico is sold just outside the Basilica. The adjacent Plaza de la Danza is the scene of frequent bailes folcloricos.

Should participants wish to visit the Mixtec ruins at Mitla, or the sulfur swimming pools (and uncanny waterfall) at
Hierve el Agua, this is a day set aside for independent exploration. Whether we spend the day exploring as a group or individually, we will convene for breakfast and supper.

Thursday. Alternatively, we may visit Zaachila --- the last capitol of the Zapotec Empire. This town of artists celebrates its tianguis on Thursday. Three separate venues house the livestock market, the wood/charcoal market and the central food/handcraft market. Zaachila offers good "country cooking."

Friday. San Martin Tilcajete and Ocotlan. San Martin is a sleepy town whose warm-hearted inhabitants take you into their homes where a great many famlies participate in alebrije manufacture. These brilliantly-painted, fantastic creatures of carved wood delight the eye. There also a bargain, routinely costing four times as much state-side. Ocotlan is noted for its splendid colonial church and a boisterous Friday tianguis. The Aquilar sisters produce world-famous ceramics, crafted iu all manner of female form. Alternatively, we may visitTeotitlán del Valle, settled by Zapotecs over 2000 years ago. Nearly every family in Teotitlan produces textiles: Wool is carded, spun and colored often using hand-gathered natural dyes. Teotitlán families own extensive communal farm lands. Their "kingdom" also covers 100,000 acres of pristine forest in the foothills of northeastern Oaxaca Valley. The Balaa Xtee Guech Gulal ("Shadow of the Old Town") Community Museum has fine displays and helpful community guides. Teotitlan is home to El Restauran Tlamanalli whose traditional cuisine is held in high regard by Oaxaca's finest chefs. La sopa de calabaza and el guisado de pollo are superb.

Ten day trips include Guelatao, Ixtlan and la ruta domínica. Benito Juarez, Mexico's much loved - and only indigenous president - was Zapotec. Juarez was born in the village of San Pablo de Guelatao, and spoke only Zapotec as a boy. He was orphaned at age 3, and in 1809 was removed to Oaxaca where Catholic priests undertook his education. After studying for the priesthood, Juarez decided on a career in law and politics. Juarez authored Mexico's most famous civic enjoinder: "El respeto al derecho ajeno es la paz." ("Respect for the rights of others is peace.") Oaxaca is also the birthplace of Porfirio Díaz, a one-time democratic president, whose lengthy and increasingly autocratic rule laid the groundwork for the Mexican Revoltion of 1910, the origin of modern Mexican politics.

A hundred dollar surcharge enables exploration of the Pacific Coast with some of the most spectacular shoreline in the hemisphere.

To learn more about Oaxacan adventures, please contact alanarchibald@mindspring.com

A hyperlinked version of this page is available at HOME

á é í ó ú ñ



	HOME Suggested Itinerary for Oaxaca expeditions. We will spend seven nights in Oaxaca, a colonial city that many observers consider "the culinary heart of Mexico." In addition to seven varieties of "salsa mole" --- red, green, yellow and black --- try "chapulines" (chile-fried grasshoppers), a spritely dish that many enjoy despite "their better judgement." Mariscos Los Jorges, and the exquisitas comidas tipicas at El Asador Vasco persuade many travelers to settle in Oaxaca, a fate that has already befallen several of my students. Delight in late-night snacks at Antojitos Regionales Los Olmos. Or, check out the immense tlayudas oaxaquenas at Marta Sanchez's roadside stand open from 9:00 P.M. til dawn. Whatever you eat, wash it down with a swig of mezcal - a distilled cactus alternative to tequila - made only in Oaxaca valley. If you don't drink alcoholic beverages, have a cup of freshly-ground chocolate at Mayordomo on Mina near La Central de Abastos. In 1555, Oaxacan nuns added sugar to chocolate for the very first time. Indigenous peoples always drank chocolate in its unadorned, bitter form. In fact, the word "chocolate" derives from the Nahua "xoco atl" meaning "bitter water." Home-grown cacao beans are transformed into "goodies"at a number of shops located at the corner of Mina and 20 de Noviembre. (Tejate and atole are other Oaxacan beverages that appeal to the venturesome palate.) Oaxaca was founded by conquistador Hernan Cortes, and remains one of the most intact colonial environments in the world. Oaxaca is blessed with an amiable citizenry, pervasive tranquilidad, abundant open-air music and dance and a temperate climate to ease the exertion of travel. For eight or more travellors, seven-day programs cost $850.00, plus airfare. ALL ground costs are included: lodging, surface transportation, entrance fees and three wonderful meals per day. Throughout your journey, you will receive as much Spanish language instruction as you wish. (Extended ten-day Oaxaca expeditions are available for $1000.00. During extended stays, participants will spend several nights lodging in modest "Yu'us," Zapotec for "house." A small number of Yu'u guest homes are scattered among Oaxaca's outlying towns. While lodging at Yu'us, indigenous caretakers reveal community life "from the inside out." (A 20% surcharge applies to expeditions that coincide with Semana Santa (Holy Week) and Oaxaca's unparalleled celebration of the "Día de los Muertos" ("Day of the Dead"). During these celebrations, Oaxacan hotel prices surge.) Currently, round-trip flights from the eastern seaboard cost $535.00 - $650.00. Spanish Pronto will gladly make reservations on your behalf. See: www.exitotravel.com www.flycheapOL.com www.orbitz.com Although each Oaxaca expedition may begin on a different day of the week, the following weekdays will likely be spent at the following locations. (PLEASE NOTE: Depending on which day of the week a particular tour begins, one of the following weekday itineraries will NOT be part of the tour. Instead, "the seventh day" -- or "tenth day" -- will begin your homeward journey.) Saturday. Oaxaca's Saturday market is sprawling, exceptionally diverse marketplace. Sunday morning: Visit Monte Alban, the most impressive Zaptotec ruin in Oaxaca state. In his memoir of Monte Alban, Aldous Huxley encourages us to "imagine a great isolated hill at the junction of three broad valleys; an island rising nearly a thousand feet from the green sea of fertility beneath it. An astonishing situation. But the Zaptotecs were not embarrassed bythe artisitic reponsibilities it imposed on them. They levelled the hill-top; laid out two huge rectangular courts; raised pyramidal altars or shrines at the center, with other, much larger, pyramids at either end. Even today, this high place of the Zapotecs remains extraordinarily impressive. Monte Alban is the work of men who knew their architectural business consummately well." Sunday afternoon: Travelers will have opportunity to observe (or participate in) mass at La Iglesia de Santo Domingo, described by Aldous Huxley as "one of the most extravagantly gorgeous churches in the world." Visit the Museo Regional de Oaxaca occupying the old Dominican monastery behind Santo Domingo church. This fine museum houses "The Mixtec Jewelry Collection" comprising a substantial proportion of all extant pre-Columbian gold-work. (Most indigenously-wrought gold was melted into ingots for exportation to Spain.) The Mixtecs, who superceded Zapotec rule when Monte Alban mysteriously collapsed in 800 A.D., are widely regarded as Mexico's best pre-Columbian artesans. By the 15th century, the Aztecs - who dominated central Mexico - valued Mixtec art and craft above all others. Monday. Santa María de Tule where you'll see the world's largest-circumference tree. Five miles farther on, a side road leads to two tiny Zapotec villages, Abasolo and Papalutla. Few tourists come to these easy-going backwaters with few affectations of modernity. In Papalutla, we will watch Don Adrián weaving baskets. A local woman will cook for us, and, if time permits, we may rent mules to explore the hinterland. Tuesday is market day in Santa Ana del Valle, a rug-weaving center. Visitors can observe master rug-maker, Lucio Aquino Cruz, plying his trade. Marciano, the local baker, makes excellent bread. Wednesday. Rest and recreation in Oaxaca. Visit the museums, cultural centers and stores along the cobblestone andador heading north from Oaxaca's Cathedral. Visit the Basílica de Nuestra Señora de la Soledad, where the Virgen Maria is reported to have appeared in 1620. Examine the fascinating collection of artefacts sent from around the world as gifts to the Virgen. The best ice cream in Mexico is sold just outside the Basilica. The adjacent Plaza de la Danza is the scene of frequent bailes folcloricos. Should participants wish to visit the Mixtec ruins at Mitla, or the sulfur swimming pools (and uncanny waterfall) at Hierve el Agua, this is a day set aside for independent exploration. Whether we spend the day exploring as a group or individually, we will convene for breakfast and supper. Thursday. Alternatively, we may visit Zaachila --- the last capitol of the Zapotec Empire. This town of artists celebrates its tianguis on Thursday. Three separate venues house the livestock market, the wood/charcoal market and the central food/handcraft market. Zaachila offers good "country cooking." Friday. San Martin Tilcajete and Ocotlan. San Martin is a sleepy town whose warm-hearted inhabitants take you into their homes where a great many famlies participate in alebrije manufacture. These brilliantly-painted, fantastic creatures of carved wood delight the eye. There also a bargain, routinely costing four times as much state-side. Ocotlan is noted for its splendid colonial church and a boisterous Friday tianguis. The Aquilar sisters produce world-famous ceramics, crafted iu all manner of female form. Alternatively, we may visitTeotitlán del Valle, settled by Zapotecs over 2000 years ago. Nearly every family in Teotitlan produces textiles: Wool is carded, spun and colored often using hand-gathered natural dyes. Teotitlán families own extensive communal farm lands. Their "kingdom" also covers 100,000 acres of pristine forest in the foothills of northeastern Oaxaca Valley. The Balaa Xtee Guech Gulal ("Shadow of the Old Town") Community Museum has fine displays and helpful community guides. Teotitlan is home to El Restauran Tlamanalli whose traditional cuisine is held in high regard by Oaxaca's finest chefs. La sopa de calabaza and el guisado de pollo are superb. Ten day trips include Guelatao, Ixtlan and la ruta domínica. Benito Juarez, Mexico's much loved - and only indigenous president - was Zapotec. Juarez was born in the village of San Pablo de Guelatao, and spoke only Zapotec as a boy. He was orphaned at age 3, and in 1809 was removed to Oaxaca where Catholic priests undertook his education. After studying for the priesthood, Juarez decided on a career in law and politics. Juarez authored Mexico's most famous civic enjoinder: "El respeto al derecho ajeno es la paz." ("Respect for the rights of others is peace.") Oaxaca is also the birthplace of Porfirio Díaz, a one-time democratic president, whose lengthy and increasingly autocratic rule laid the groundwork for the Mexican Revoltion of 1910, the origin of modern Mexican politics. A hundred dollar surcharge enables exploration of the Pacific Coast with some of the most spectacular shoreline in the hemisphere. To learn more about Oaxacan adventures, please contact alanarchibald@mindspring.com A hyperlinked version of this page is available at HOME á é í ó ú ñ